Lima didn’t start very well for us. I left Monte (remember, my lovely Panama hat from Montechristi in Ecuador?) on the bus and went back to find he was lost forever. After a few consoling phone calls back to Ireland (it wasn’t just a hat Dad!) I think I’m finally getting over it. Whoever took him better give him a good life though. Anyway, we arrived at the CIVA bus terminal in the La Victoria (supposedly dodgy) area of Lima and caught a taxi to the Miraflores suburb for S/.15. We stayed at the Flying Dog B&B (I don’t know where they’re going calling it a B&B – definitely a hostel and with one of the worst kitchens I’ve ever seen…although there was a bar) overlooking Parque Kennedy for 3 nights. It was supposed to be S/.85 a night but we got some laundry done there for a stupidly expensive S/.7 per kg (nearly $3 per kg) and they lost John’s Tommy Hilfiger jumper. John not a happy camper = free accommodation. Result. One afternoon we were walking around and my Havaianas literally split in half. What the hell, Lima?
So, we decided that we should treat ourselves a little in Lima since the universe wasn’t being exceptionally kind. A 30 minute or so walk from Parque Kennedy lies the Larcomar Shopping Centre which is actually built into the cliffside. You can’t really see it on approach but it’s across from the JW Marriott. It’s the perfect location for some pre-dinner sunset viewing. Since we’re on the subject of food…we had an absolutely amazing dinner in an Italian restaurant called Tantu in the shopping centre. Italian food and delicious vino is the perfect combination. Dessert was a little special there too – they brought over a huge tray full of freshly prepared goodies – we went for chocolate mousse and a few macarons. Larcomar is more of an eatery than a shopping centre to be honest. It had Banana Republic, Steve Madden, an awesome OPI spot, supermarket and a cinema. It’s not really somewhere you could shop til you dropped. Still on food…I found an article on Buzzfeed about the top 10 bakeries in the world and one was in Lima so obviously…It’s called El Pan de la Chola (Address: Ave. Mariscal La Mar 918 – a good 30 minute walk from Parque Kennedy but oh so worth it). We went here twice – delicious everything but John enjoyed some avocado with freshly baked sourdough and some craft beers. Him and his craft beers! Himself had his coffee fix at Arabica Espresso Bar (Address: Recavarren 269, Miraflores). I had my cookie fix here. There’s also a little coffee spot called Puku Puku and is quite close to Parque Kennedy (Address: Narciso de la Colina 299). It’s tiny but a nice little spot to while away some time with wifi. There’s a good sandwich spot around the area too – La Lucha (Address: Avenida Diagonal 308). Seriously filling portions. I managed to replace my Havaianas around here too – there are a couple of department stores around here that are ok if you’re in a pickle.
We did not do one cultural thing in Lima. Not ashamed.
Note: If you’re coming to Perú you should use Banco de la Nación (or MultiRed ATMs) as they don’t charge any fees. You should see the length of the queues sometimes though. Insane.
Next stop: We’re flying with StarPeru to Cusco (taxi was S/.50 from Parque Kennedy to the airport and it took 30 minutes)