We travelled from Dublin to Copenhagen with Ryanair for €112 return for 2 people, including 10kg carry-on baggage per person. I LOVE travelling in Europe! It’s so much cheaper than what we’ve been used to in Australia over the past few years, AND you get to experience a whole different culture over a weekend. Oh how I’m excited to live back in Europe 🙂 We landed on Saturday night and flew back to Dublin late on Monday night so we had all day Sunday and all day Monday to explore. We took the metro from CPH airport to Nørrebro station and then walked approx. 15 minutes to our hotel. The metro takes about 15 minutes to the city centre.
We stayed in the citizenM hotel, which has a fantastic location right in the city centre, within walking distance from all the hot-spots. It’s right around the corner from Tivoli Gardens, the second oldest amusement park in the world. We were excited to visit this place…however it’s closed from January to April (until just before Easter) so that didn’t quite work out for us!
Obviously, my number one goal for Copenhagen was food related…so our first stop was breakfast in GRØD, a porridge mecca, housed in foodie hotspot, Torvehallerne. You can get your porridge fix here from 7.30am – 5pm every day. I went with their Oat Porridge 1, homely porridge smothered in their home-made caramel sauce (it’s dulce de leche), apples and roasted almonds. It’s approx. €9 with today’s DKK/EUR exchange rate so not cheap by any stretch of the imagination. Worth it though. We went back on Day 2 for more. Torvehallerne is an airy, twin-building food market in the Nørrebro district. One of the buildings houses little eateries such as The Coffee Collective, GRØD, and Lauras Bakery and the other, separated by a gorgeous little flower market, has stalls with all you’d need to cook up an epic dinner.
We walked A LOT over our weekend break, 15km on Day 1 and 20km on Day 2. Partly because Ryanair drop you about two villages away from the airport exit 😉 but also because that’s typically how we see new cities. We rarely get those City Bus Tours or public transport tickets – we like to just meander and see where we end up. We always end up at a must-see!
After breakfast on Day 1 we went to see the Round Tower/Rundetaarn, a 17th century observatory, with a paved ramp circling you to the top which offers a spectacular view of the city. This opens at 10am and costs 25DKK (c. €3). We walked to check out the Freetown Christiana area/commune. It took about 30 minutes to wander there from the Round Tower. Well…this place. It is a former military base which was taken over by ‘hippies’ in the 1970s. Maybe it was a nicer (?) place to visit back in the day, but now it’s a rather unsettling place to be honest. It’s basically just a dodgy, druggie area. After this we walked back to check out the Gasoline Grill, a petrol station/burger joint. I had seen it on Somebody Feed Phil, so definitely wanted to check it out. We queued for about 15 minutes and once there were 2 people ahead of us they said there was going to be another 40 minute wait. Maybe next time 🙂
We went to see the colourful Nyhavn harbour area. It was starting to rain pretty heavily so we didn’t hang around too long and instead pretty much raced up to the Magazin du Nord department store. We just had a quick mooch around here but the food department down in the basement is a nice place to check out. I LOVE going to supermarkets when we go abroad so I’d happily spend hours picking up every single product on offer! There’s a few chains of supermarkets around the city but we went to a couple of Irma outlets and picked up some confectionary that you can’t leave Denmark without! After Magazin du Nord John was desperate for a hot-dog so we circled back to the Round Tower to visit DØP, an organic hot-dog stand. There’s another one right in front of The Church of The Holy Ghost on Strøget pedestrian street. These guys looked like the cleanest hot-dog stands. After our hot-dogs we were pretty much frozen solid so we went to H&M owned ARKET for a coffee. It’s more upmarket than H&M (and I just found out that H&M own & Other Stories too – WHAT?!) and very nicely curated.
On our first evening we checked out a bit of the local night-life. We were there for St. Patrick’s weekend so we started out in The Old Irish Pub, right around the corner from our hotel. We then had dinner across the road in Vapiano. I know it’s an Italian restaurant and we were in Denmark but I just love their food – it’s so quick and it’s a great place for chatting. It wasn’t very busy as we got there quite late but it had a lovely vibe and the staff we’re very friendly. Another plus for Vapiano is that it’s housed within Tivoli Gardens and the lovely chap making our pizzas let us outside on the decking area so we got to see within Tivoli Gardens at night. Can’t wait to go back just to visit Tivoli!! After dinner we went to the Dubliner Irish pub. Bit crap but also a bit of craic. We pottered on to check out jazz club La Fontaine for a drink and a little bit of music (free entry on the Sunday night we visited). We often end up at jazz clubs when we go away. There’s always such a great cozy vibe 🙂
Day 2 once again started out with some epic porridge from GRØD. We then took a walk and wander around the Nørrebro area. It’s residential but is home to the Assistens Cemetery. Cemetery you say? Yep. Danish literature giant Hans Christian Anderson is buried here so we wanted to pay our respects. The cemetery is also a public park and it really is beautiful. Not as beautiful as Buenos Aires’ Recoleta Cemetery (where Evita is buried) but beautiful none the less. Poetically, people have left pens and pencils on HC Anderson’s grave. After Assistens we had a quick coffee pitstop at Ansersen & Maillard. It’s an industrial style roastery from a Noma alumni so you might want to try some pastries from here 😉 Next on our food-stop tour was Aamanns Deli for some typical Danish food – smørrebrød. Smørrebrød is basically little open sandwiches. We didn’t book in advance and it was very quiet but that’s perhaps because it was Monday lunchtime. I highly recommend a visit here – we had a lovely lunch. Onwards and upwards and we next strolled through the park (where there are swings – get thee on these!) behind Aamanns Deli and in to the Kastellet, a star-shaped 17th century military fortress. There are still military offices here today so you’re likely to see uniforms patrolling the area. It’s a short walk from here to see the famous bronze statue of Hans Christian Andersen’s imagined Little Mermaid (by sculptor Edvard Eriksen). I had read about the Genetically Modified Little Mermaid, another bronze statue about a 10 minute walk Eriksen’s. It’s by Professor Bjørn Nørgaard and is part of The Genetically Modified Paradise exhibit, offering an alternative (read: sobering) look at modern society. We then checked out the Royal Guard/Den Kongelige Livgarde, at the Amalienborg Palace, the home of the Danish Royals. There is a museum here but it’s currently closed on Mondays. We made our way back to the Nyhavn harbour area and stopped for some tea in McJoy’s Choice, a hyggelig little pub and perfect spot to warm up. We headed back to Vapiano for more Italian food before heading back to the airport 🙂