Cinque Terre, Italy

Our time at the Cinque Terre, or five villages on the Italian coast was really more of a whistle-stop tour. We were in the area and couldn’t just pass by without checking it out. Obviously. We drove from Rome up the coast as we needed to spend one night in Genoa before hopping back over the border in to France. It’s actually a much easier trip from Florence – just about 2 hours drive. The Cinque Terre was a necessary stop on our route as we just had to get some vitamin sea 🙂 It’s hard to pick just one village to stop off at so we settled on checking out a few, research for a possible future longer trip I guess! Honestly, the parking situation isn’t great but it’s also not as much of a nightmare as the internet makes out. If you can, forego bringing the car but there are parking spots if you’re patient. Leave space for gelato 😉

Here’s a little photo essay of our afternoon drive-by:

Oh yeah!

Oh yeah!

That there is vino growing land

That there is vino growing land

Those views

Those views

Corniglia

Corniglia

The colours here - just beautiful

The colours here – just beautiful

Talk about an enticing entrance

Talk about an enticing entrance

Vernazza; flood damage from 2011

Vernazza; flood damage from 2011

Vernazza's streets

Vernazza’s streets

Vernazza

Vernazza

Vernazza's beach

Vernazza’s beach

Fishing time!

Fishing time!

Perfect lunch spot

Perfect lunch spot!

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Rome, Italy

We drove from Florence down to Rome, stopping in beautiful Siena and then the Abbey of San Galgano (a gothic roof-less church – great pit stop!) en-route. It’s a nice leisurely drive with stunning scenery if you get off the main roads.

Olive Groves

Olive Groves

Abbey of San Galgano

Abbey of San Galgano

We stayed in a lovely AirBnB just off the Spanish Steps and the Piazza di Spagna; it was a wonderful location – walking distance to everything!! We headed straight for cocktails on our first evening in Rome. The Hassler Hotel has a great garden bar called the Palm Court. It was very quiet so we just had some cocktails and played our first game of backgammon. Hooked…

Babingtons Tea Rooms (so English in the middle of Rome) sits right next to the Spanish Steps and is a great (albeit with a saucy price tag) place for afternoon tea or a light lunch. I opted to go all Audrey Hepburn and chose their Vacanze Romane tea…all about those little roses.

Spanish Steps with the Babington Tea Rooms on the bottom left

Spanish Steps with the Babington Tea Rooms on the bottom left

Babington's tea choice

Babington’s tea choice

Babingtons

Babingtons

Just down the street, on Via Condotti, is Antico Caffe Greco, Roma’s oldest cafe – established in 1760. Wowsers! Make like a local and grap a cappuccino in the morning standing at the bar. Apparently it was quite the spot for the literary crowd back in the day. It’s dark, with red walls adorned with art, absolutely worth a look. There’s plenty of shopping around this area. & Other Stories was hit up 😉

Caffe Grecco

Caffe Grecco

We did a lot of meandering around Rome’s streets; taking in many, many gelato spots. We happened upon the Trevvi Fountain on numerous occasions, a nice little treat. It’s jammed packed with people 100% of the time – coins are flying left, right and centre and there are police screaming at tourists not to touch anything. Not a relaxing spot but beautiful all the same.

Trevvi Fountain

Trevvi Fountain

This car needs to be in my life

This car needs to be in my life

We happened upon the Pantheon a few times – it’s absolutely worth a wander in – it’s beautiful (and free). The doors are amazing – they’re bronze and mega #doorsoftheworld. It’s a good stop en-route to La Gelateria Frigidarium. Must visit. We tried a few but I’m a stracciatella lady all the way. Dipped in chocolate. Oh yeah. There’s a stunning square called Piazza Navona just around the corner from here, it’s probably the world’s most beautiful square. The perfect location for a romantic evening stroll (with gelato dripping down your arms)…

Pantheon

Pantheon

The oculus or roof of the Pantheon

The oculus or roof of the Pantheon

Pantheon entrance

Pantheon entrance

Those doors!

Those doors!

You can’t go to Rome and not visit the Colosseum and Roman Forum area. The queues and heat there are INSANE. Pre-book so you don’t have to queue and definitely bring water. Sorted!

Colosseum

Colosseum

Colosseum

Colosseum

Colosseum

Roman Forum

Roman Forum

Surprises around every corner

Surprises around every corner

Walking away from the Colosseum we came across a Botero exhibition at Museo Central del Risorgimento, on Piazza Venezia. We first came across Botero in Colombia so we’ve been admirers ever since.

Botero's bronze horse

Botero’s bronze horse

Forgotten Rome

Forgotten Rome…beauty

 

The Vatican

We got up bright and early to go visit the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel on our last day in Rome. Got there and turns out the Sistine Chapel was closed!! There are a few odd dates in the whole year when it’s closed and pretty typically we picked one of these dates haha. I had seen it on a school tour a while back but it sucks that John didn’t get to see the Sistine Chapel. Guess we’ll have to go back!

This way!

This way!

St. Peter's Basilica

St. Peter’s Basilica

Siena, Italy

Well, Siena’s rather pretty!! We only had a couple of hours here as we were travelling to Rome but we got a great vibe and can’t wait to return! We were really lucky with our timing as the whole city was decorated beautifully for the Palio di Siena, a horse-race held twice a year (July and August) with 10 horses racing from the city’s 17 contrade/districts. Each contrade has a unique colourful flag and they’re hung with pride out of the buildings in the city. We were in Siena a few days before the August race and all of the main square, Piazza del Campo, is encircled with a grandstand. There’s lots of restaurants underneath which were open – the heat was ridiculous there so we sat in for a drink in a cafe that had misting machines over the tables – look out for them – my favourite invention EVER!! Siena’s Palio features in James Bond – Quantum of Solace. There’s a great article on the event here.

Arriving in Siena

Arriving in Siena

Siena's contrade

Siena’s contrade

I think this should be my team!

I think this should be my team!

We started our morning at Caffe Fiorella Torrefazione for cappuccinos standing at the bar. How very Italiano of us!! As we meandered around the cobblestoned streets, sidestepping the crowds and visiting little shops. We came across a little deli called Pizzicheria De Miccoli which is an attraction in itself. It’s brimming with charcuterie, cheeses and paninis out the door! The exterior is insta-worthy for sure. It’s worth a trip in for a takeaway panini for a picnic later in the day…unless you’re vegetarian.

Morning!

Morning!

Piazza del Camp

Piazza del Camp

I'll take it all!

I’ll take it all!

Siena has one of the most beautiful cathedrals I’ve ever seen. There’s so much pink!! It’s stunning. The queues start early and there’s no shade so I’d recommend going as early as possible if you want to get inside.

Siena's beautiful Cathedral

Siena’s beautiful Cathedral

Up close

Up close

Getting ready...

Getting ready…

Florence, Italy

Well, I may have a new favourite city. Gosh Florence/Firenze is beautiful! We stayed for a few nights, in a little place called La Scaletta next to the Ponte Vecchio bridge (THE sunset catching spot of Florence). Honestly, we probably wouldn’t have picked this place to stay if we’d bothered to spend ANY time planning our honeymoon but it’s a really quaint spot with a fantastic location. The rooftop view is simply amazing and it was within walking distance of everything we wanted to see.

From the very first second you set eyes upon Florence it’s just art, architecture, colour – SO much to see. Although it’s a compact city, you’ll need to be prepared for walking. Luckily, there are leather sandal shops on every corner!

Olive groves en route to Florence

Ah Florence!!!

Florence’s rooftops

Sunset from the Ponte Vecchio

Hands down Florence’s number one can’t miss (because even if you tried you couldn’t) sight is the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. THAT DOME. I must have 1000 pictures of just that. Haha, worth it.

There was a classical concert on our first night in Florence and as we’d just had Canon in D (Johann Pachelbel) as our ‘walking up the aisle song’ (wedding entrance song?) we thought it was a little sign that we should go. It was just over an hour and there was this little girl in front of us (I think probably about 3 years old and learning the violin) who was really into like the first 15 minutes and then kept nodding off – head bobbing to the left and right for the entire concert. So cute. The concert was in the Santo Stefano al Ponte church/auditorium – which was STUNNING. So glad we went.

That dome!

Florence’s Cathedral

Perfection

Last one!

Michelangelo’s David. Go see him! He’s in the Accademia Gallery. Don’t queue. Why do people queue?! You can either pre-purchase your tickets online or you can buy them at 105-107 Via Ricasoli – right across the road from where the queue starts. I think there was a 4 euro difference in ticket price between queuing (for hours, honestly) and just going to the counter on the left hand side of the entrance to the Accademia Libreria. We bought them on a Sunday morning about 9am (as they were all sold out online) and walked straight across the street past the queue. Quick security check and you’re in. There are also guides and touts around the place selling tickets for there are then entry.

David

Kinda want one for each of my necklaces…

So apparently the cafe at the Gucci Museo is worth a visit…we wouldn’t know as it was closed. Sob.

As we were in Italy we thought it was our duty to sample every gelato offering around. Generally in Italia you pay first and then bring your receipt over to the gelato counter and they’ll tear it and serve you. Vivoli was my favourite spot. It was quiet here after dinner one night so we sat in a cosy corner nattering away. We also tried La Strega Nocciola on Via Ricasoli (right behind Eataly) one afternoon. This is a tiny place with the loveliest chap behind the counter. You can try whatever you want here before committing (you can do that everywhere in Australia really but it doesn’t seem to be the done thing in Italy. I guess they’re afraid of wasting gelato!). Grom – John ordered lemon gelato here. I tried it and my cheeks are still wincing. Crikey. Venchi – not sure what’s with the queues coming out of these outlets. It’s like the McDonalds of gelato. Meh.

We adore Eataly and pretty much every time we see one we’ll go in. One afternoon we got some picnic supplies and bought tickets for the Giardino di Boboli/the Boboli Gardens. We had to queue for tickets, maybe for about 20 minutes (7 euro per person) but it was the perfect place for a city picnic – it wasn’t too easy to find a spot to picnic initially…you know when you’re just looking for somewhere that’s just perfection? We found the spot eventually – under the shade of a tree, overlooking the Fountain of Neptune with the city in the background.

There are specialty paper shops called Il Papiro all over Italy, and there was one right next to our hotel where we came across them hand decorating their paper – a technique called peacock feathering! It would be beautiful for wrapping paper. If you fancied spending 20 euro to wrap like an A5 sized book. Ahhem 🙂

Our picture perfect picnic spot

Boboli Gardens

Sculpture in the Boboli Gardens

Those colours

Street market stalls

Street graffiti

Haha

There’s art EVERYWHERE in Florence!

Modena, Italy

It’s a pretty long drive from Zermatt, Switzerland to Modena, Italy, taking approximately 5 hours…maybe a little longer with food stops. It’s just over an hour to the Italian border (although there are no border checks) and the scenery around the border area is absolutely stunning – snow capped peaks and plenty of switchbacks to keep the driver awake 🙂 You could just go straight to Milan and it would be a relatively quick trip but we were keen to stay away from big cities for a little while and as the weather was temperamental we skipped the Lake Como area too. Next time! We really did plan our honeymoon on the fly!

Fidenza Village

We had a little stop en-route at Fidenza Village Outlet Village. I kind of assumed the shopping in Italy would be great and this place would be amazing but I’m not sure I’d really recommend it. Dolce & Gabbana have a pretty nice store but all the rest are the same outlet stores you get in all these villages – the Calvin Klein store had exactly the same stuff as the Kildare Village in Ireland…although they’re both run by the same company. You can visit on a day trip from Florence but I’m not sure if I’d go out of my way to go back to be honest…

Shopping at Fidenza Village

Modena

We arrived in the early evening and all of Modena was on holidays so we had the whole place to ourselves! We stayed at the Best Western Premier Milano Palace – it was maybe a 7-10 minute stroll to the centre of Modena. We decided to visit Modena as we’d seen it on Aziz Ansari’s Master of None show on Netflix (which is awesome). Massimo Bottura runs a 3 Michelin star restaurant in Modena, Osteria Francescana, which obviously we were dying to try…but they were closed for holidays so we’ll just have to go back! Massimo also has a more informal restaurant, Franceschetta58. We ended up at a fantastic little spot called La Bicicletta – and what a charcuterie board we had. SO GOOD! Our gelato fix was had at Gelataria Bloom, delish!

The romanesque Duomo di Modena (cathedral) is well worth a visit – it towers over Piazza Grande, a huge square brimming with wanderers. It’s a striking cathedral, founded in 1099 and consecrated in 1184 – it’s also a UNESCO site of universal outstanding value. After our dinner at La Bicicletta we wandered past the Ducal Palace of Modena and eventually found ourselves at a summers evening concert in the Parco Giardino Ducale Estense – how random! The whole city was there relaxing, dancing and checking out the art exhibition indoors. It was a lovely end to our evening in Modena.

Our hotel

Getting the lay of the land

Modena’s streets

Modena

Duomo di Modena

Duomo di Modena

La Bicicletta

Duomo after dinner

Modena street details

Ducal Palace of Modena

Palazzo Ducale di Modena

Art exhibition at the park

Some dark stuff in here too…